More from the NGC assignment...

At first glance it looked like a herd of cattle had preceded us on the Chang Tang, but those mounds are actually dwarf shrubs. When we cut one open, it had 50 rings, which means that in half a century it had grown no bigger than a cow pie.

This was our logistical challenge: to trek across 275 miles (442 kilometers) of the northern Chang Tang—a lonely, often hilly steppe—with no opportunity to resupply. Inspired by the overland sledges used by polar explorers, we designed a ricksha that could carry our tents, sleeping bags, clothes, and camera gear, plus a slingshot, bear mace, and four celebratory cans of beer. Three prototypes and almost $20,000 later, we took delivery of four aluminum rickshas. They handled pretty well, but could have used a few extra horsepower.